Shimano MT200 Brakes: Common Problems, Fixes & Best Pads

Written by an expert bicycle mechanic + cycling technical writer for the Gorilla Brakes workshop blog.

Shimano MT200 brakes are one of the most common hydraulic disc brake setups on entry-level MTBs, hybrids, commuters, and many everyday eBikes. They’re reliable and easy to live with, but like any hydraulic brake they can develop real-world issues: squealing, rotor rub, spongy levers, sticky pistons, and poor power.

This guide helps you diagnose problems safely (without jargon), fix what you can at home, and choose the best brake pads for Shimano MT200 based on your riding conditions. Along the way, we’ll naturally point you to the right-fit Gorilla Brakes pads that match the MT200 pad shape.

---

---

What are Shimano MT200 brakes and who are they for?

The Shimano MT200 is a 2-piston hydraulic disc brake system designed for dependable, low-maintenance braking. You’ll see it most often on:

• Hybrid bikes and commuters
• Entry-level mountain bikes
• Fitness bikes
• Everyday eBikes (especially city/commuter style builds)

What to expect: smooth modulation, consistent braking when set up correctly, and good reliability. It’s not a downhill race brake, but it’s more than capable for daily riding and light-to-moderate trail use.

Important: With Shimano MT200 brakes, pad condition and pad compound choice heavily affect performance. Pad compound changes:

• Noise (quiet vs. more “metallic” sound)
• Initial bite (how quickly brakes “grab”)
• Wet performance and consistency
• Rotor wear
• Longevity (how long pads last)

---

Quick diagnosis checklist (60 seconds)

• Squeal / howl? Often contamination, glazing, or poor bed-in.
• Lever feels spongy or pulls to the bar? Often air in the system, worn pads, or pistons not reset.
• Constant scraping / rubbing? Often caliper alignment, wheel seating, bent rotor, or sticky piston.
• Firm lever but weak braking? Often contaminated or glazed pads/rotor, or incorrect bed-in.
• Fade on long descents? Heat management + pad compound choice + technique.

---

Tools you’ll need

• Nitrile gloves (keep oils off pads/rotors)
• Isopropyl alcohol (90%+ is best) and clean lint-free wipes
• Allen/hex keys (commonly 3–5mm, varies by bike)
• Plastic tire lever or piston press tool (no metal tools on pistons)
• Fine sandpaper (120–220 grit) for light deglazing (when appropriate)
• Good light source (headlamp helps)

---

Common Shimano MT200 Problems (and How to Fix Them)

A) Squealing / loud braking (MT200 brake squeal fix)

Symptoms

• High-pitched squeal or loud howl when braking
• Often worse in wet weather
• Inconsistent bite (sometimes grabs, sometimes doesn’t)

Likely causes

• Contamination: chain lube, degreaser, bike spray, finger oils, leaking fluid
• Glazed pads: shiny, hardened pad surface from heat or dragging brakes
• Improper bed-in: pads never transferred an even layer to the rotor
• Rotor film: residue layer causing slip/squeal

Step-by-step fix

1. Cool down and inspect. If the pads look wet/oily, assume contamination.
2. Clean the rotor properly: remove the wheel, spray rotor with isopropyl alcohol, wipe with a clean lint-free cloth. Repeat until the cloth comes away clean.
3. Check the pads:
   • If pads are oil-soaked (dark, smelly, slick), replacement is the safest option.
   • If pads are lightly glazed (shiny but not oily), you can try deglazing.
4. Deglaze (only if appropriate): lightly sand the pad surface on a flat surface. Also scuff the rotor braking track evenly (light pressure).
5. Bed-in correctly: see the bed-in section below. This is the difference between quiet, powerful brakes and annoying squeal.

When to replace instead of sanding: if contamination is suspected, or if squeal returns quickly, or if power is poor. In the workshop, replacing pads is often the fastest and most reliable fix.

Recommended Gorilla Brakes pads for squeal-prone commuting: Gorilla Brakes Resin/Organic B-type (B01S/B03S/B05S shape). It’s typically the quietest compound for daily riding.

---

B) Spongy lever / lever pulls to bar (Shimano MT200 spongy lever)

Symptoms

• Lever feels mushy
• Lever pulls close to the handlebar
• Bite point changes ride-to-ride
• Braking feels weak even with a hard pull

Likely causes

• Air in the system (most common)
• Old/contaminated fluid
• Worn pads increasing piston travel
• Pistons not reset after pad wear or wheel changes
• Loose hose fitting (less common, but important)

Step-by-step fix

1. Check pad wear first. Thin pads = more lever travel. If pads are near worn, do a Shimano MT200 brake pad replacement before you assume a bleed is needed.
2. Reset pistons safely: remove wheel and pads, use a plastic tool to gently push pistons back evenly. Refit pads and wheel.
3. Confirm caliper alignment (see rubbing section). Misalignment can feel like weak braking.
4. If still spongy: perform a proper Shimano mineral oil bleed using the correct kit and method (follow Shimano’s dealer manual). Take your time and keep everything clean.
5. Check for leaks: around lever, hose, and caliper. If there’s fluid on pads/rotor, treat it as contamination and replace pads.

---

C) Rotor rub after wheel install / constant scraping (MT200 brake rubbing rotor)

Symptoms

• Constant scraping sound when wheel spins
• Wheel slows quickly when lifted
• Rub sometimes changes when you tighten the axle or quick release
• Rub disappears briefly if you lightly brake

Likely causes

• Wheel not fully seated in dropouts
• Caliper misalignment
• Slightly bent rotor
• Sticky piston not retracting evenly

Step-by-step fix

1. Reseat the wheel: loosen axle/QR, firmly seat wheel into dropouts, re-tighten correctly.
2. Center the caliper:
   • Loosen caliper mounting bolts (just enough so it can move).
   • Squeeze and hold the brake lever to center the caliper.
   • While holding lever, tighten bolts evenly.
   • Spin the wheel and check.
3. Check rotor straightness: spin wheel and watch the gap. A small wobble can be gently trued. If you’re not confident, a shop can true or replace the rotor.
4. If rub persists: clean and reset pistons (see sticky piston section).

---

D) One piston moving / sticky pistons

Symptoms

• One pad wears faster than the other
• Rotor gets pushed sideways when braking
• Caliper is difficult to align without rubbing

Likely causes

• Dirt buildup on piston edges
• Infrequent cleaning
• Seals/piston area getting gummed up over time

Step-by-step fix (safe home method)

1. Remove wheel and pads.
2. Place a clean pad spacer (or clean plastic wedge) in the caliper.
3. Slowly pump the lever until pistons move out slightly (do not over-extend).
4. Clean the exposed piston edges with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud or lint-free swab.
5. Gently press pistons back evenly with a plastic tool.
6. Repeat the “pump-clean-press” cycle until both pistons move smoothly and evenly.

---

E) Poor power even after a bleed

Symptoms

• Lever feels firm, but braking is weak
• Feels “slippery” or like it won’t bite
• Stops are long even with strong lever pressure

Likely causes

• Contaminated pads (common after cleaning sprays or chain lube)
• Glazed pads/rotor
• Incorrect or incomplete bed-in
• Pad compound mismatch (e.g., needing better wet/heat performance)

Step-by-step fix

1. Inspect pads: if you suspect contamination, replace pads. This is often the fastest solution.
2. Clean rotor thoroughly with alcohol.
3. Lightly scuff rotor braking track (optional but helpful if glazed).
4. Install fresh pads and perform a proper bed-in procedure.
5. Choose a better compound for your riding (see pad recommendations below).

---

F) Brake fade / overheating (long descents, heavy riders, eBikes)

Symptoms

• Braking gets worse on long descents
• Lever feel changes during sustained braking
• You smell hot brakes or hear “howling” after heavy use

Likely causes

• Heat buildup from dragging brakes
• Pad compound not suited to heat load
• Heavy rider + cargo + eBike speeds increasing brake demand
• Brake rub causing constant heat

Step-by-step fix

1. Change technique: avoid dragging brakes. Brake firmly in short intervals, then release to let rotors cool.
2. Fix any rubbing (constant rub = constant heat).
3. Upgrade pad compound: semi-metallic or sintered/metal pads handle heat better.
4. Rotor size considerations: if your bike allows a larger rotor and correct adapter, more rotor can improve heat management. If unsure, consult a shop for compatibility.

---

Shimano MT200 brake pad replacement (simple safe steps)

If your pads are worn, noisy, or contaminated, a Shimano MT200 brake pad replacement is often the quickest win.

1. Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the pad retaining pin/bolt (keep small parts safe).
3. Slide pads and spring out as a set.
4. With pads removed, push pistons back gently using a clean plastic tool.
5. Install new pads + spring (correct orientation).
6. Reinstall pin/bolt securely (do not guess torque—consult Shimano documentation or a shop if unsure).
7. Reinstall wheel and re-center the caliper if needed.
8. Perform a proper bed-in procedure.

---

How to bed-in disc brake pads (do this every time)

Many “bad brakes” are simply not bedded in. Bedding-in transfers an even layer of pad material to the rotor and stabilizes performance.

1. In a safe area, accelerate to a moderate speed.
2. Brake firmly to a near-stop (don’t lock up, don’t fully stop and hold the brake).
3. Repeat 10–15 times, building heat gradually.
4. Let brakes cool and avoid dragging brakes immediately afterwards.

Internal guide : How to bed-in disc brake pads

---

Best Gorilla Brakes Pads for Shimano MT200 (B01S/B03S/B05S)

MT200 uses the Shimano B-type pad shape (B01S/B03S/B05S family). Below is a simple way to choose the best brake pads for Shimano MT200 based on how you ride.

We’ve made it simple with this full breakdown of our three performance tiers:

• 🏆 Enduro Pro – Highest performance: Our top-tier compounds offering more power, longer life, superior modulation, and excellent heat resistance.
• 🏁 Factory Racing – High performance: Tuned for power and precision, with options for eMTB, trail, road, gravel, and urban riding.
• 🔧 Standard Compounds – Performance: Reliable, value-focused pads for everyday riding across road, gravel, commuting, and light MTB.

🏆 Enduro Pro Compound Comparison (Highest performance)

🏁 Factory Racing Compound Comparison (High performance)

Engineered for riders who want stronger bite, better modulation, and longer life without going full race compound.

🔧 Standard Compound Comparison (Performance)

Our most accessible pads, focused on value, reliability, and everyday riding conditions.

🧠 Which pad is right for you?

• 🚲 Commuters & Urban: Factory Racing Organic, Semi-Metallic, Factory Racing E-Bike
• 🌄 Trail & XC: Enduro Pro Semi-Metallic, Factory Racing Titanium, Ceramic – NANO TECH
• 🛣️ Road & Gravel: Choose based on weather, rider weight, and braking demands
• 🔋 eMTB & Heavier Riders: Enduro Ceramic, Enduro Pro Ultimate, Factory Racing E-Bike
• ⛰️ Downhill & Alpine: Enduro Pro range

♻️ Sustainable. Powerful. Trusted.
All Gorilla Brakes pads are REACH-compliant and recyclable via our Brake Pad Recycling Program.

👉 Browse all Gorilla Brakes pads

When to stop DIY and visit a bike shop

• You suspect a hydraulic leak (fluid around lever/hose/caliper)
• You can’t remove sponginess after correct bleeding attempts
• Pistons won’t move evenly after careful cleaning
• Your rotor is significantly bent or cracked
• Braking feels unsafe or unpredictable

---

Recommended internal links 

• Shop Gorilla Brakes pads for Shimano B-type (B01S/B03S/B05S)
• Brake noise troubleshooting guide
• How to bed-in disc brake pads
• Disc brake pad compounds explained

---

Final workshop advice

If your Shimano MT200 brakes are squealing, rubbing, or feeling weak, don’t assume the brakes are “bad.” In real-world workshop fixes, the most common solutions are:

• Clean rotors properly
• Replace contaminated or worn pads
• Bed-in correctly
• Center the caliper and free sticky pistons

 

---

FAQ

1) What brake pads fit Shimano MT200 brakes?

Shimano MT200 uses the Shimano B-type pad shape. B01S, B03S, and B05S are the same shape family and are compatible.

2) Why do my Shimano MT200 brakes squeal?

Squeal is usually caused by contamination, glazed pads, or poor bed-in. Clean the rotor, inspect/replace pads if needed, and bed-in properly.

3) How do I fix a Shimano MT200 spongy lever?

Check pad wear, reset pistons, and bleed the system if air is present. If you don’t have the correct bleed kit, a shop bleed is often safer.

4) What causes MT200 brake rubbing rotor after wheel install?

Most commonly: wheel not seated fully, caliper misalignment, a slightly bent rotor, or a sticky piston. Re-seat wheel, center caliper, and check rotor straightness.

5) Can I use metallic/sintered pads on Shimano MT200?

Yes—if the pads are the correct B-type shape. Sintered pads can improve heat resistance and longevity, especially for eBikes and heavier riders.

6) Why is braking weak even with a firm lever?

Firm lever + weak braking often points to contaminated or glazed pads/rotor, or an incomplete bed-in process. Clean, replace pads if needed, and bed-in again.

7) How often should I do Shimano MT200 brake pad replacement?

Replace when pads are worn low, contaminated, or performance drops. Riding conditions vary a lot—wet commuting and eBikes typically wear pads faster.

8) Do pad compounds really make a difference?

Yes. Pad compound affects noise, bite, wet performance, rotor wear, and pad life. Choose resin for quiet, semi-metal for wet/mixed use, and sintered for heat/durability.

9) Can I save contaminated pads by sanding?

Light glazing can sometimes be sanded. Oil-soaked pads usually cannot be safely restored—replacement is the reliable fix.

10) What’s the best pad choice for wet UK weather?

Semi-metallic B-type pads are a strong choice for wet consistency and durability, especially for commuting and mixed terrain.