Bedding in New Brake Pads on Bikes: A Comprehensive Guide

How to Bed In Disc Brake Pads

bedding in creates a stable friction layer on the rotor so your brakes deliver consistent power, better modulation, and reduced noise. This guide applies to MTB, road, gravel, electric bike, and commuting setups.

bedding in creates a stable friction layer on the rotor surface and allows the pad and rotor to develop an even working interface. This stabilises friction, improves lever feel, and reduces the risk of vibration or squeal.

• Consistent braking performance: predictable power and modulation.
• Better pad and rotor life: helps prevent uneven deposits and hot spots.
• Reduced noise: less squeal caused by patchy transfer layers.

bedding in is not just “wearing in” the pads. It is a controlled process where heat, pressure and friction create a stable interface between the brake pad and rotor.

• 1. Surface conditioning: The pad and rotor surfaces start uneven at a microscopic level. Repeated braking cycles increase the real contact area between pad and rotor so braking force is applied more evenly across the surface.
• 2. Transfer layer formation: A thin, even friction layer develops on the rotor surface. This is the stable working layer the pad interacts with during normal braking.
• 3. Heat stabilisation: Controlled heating cycles stabilise the pad compound and rotor interface without overheating the surface, helping prevent glazing, uneven deposits and early fade.
• 4. System matching: The pad and rotor effectively “tune” to each other. Once bedded in, the brake system delivers more consistent power, smoother modulation and reduced noise.

⚠️ Important: Avoid coming to a full stop with the brakes clamped during bedding in. This can print pad material onto one spot on the rotor and cause vibration or squeal.

• Ensure pads and rotors are installed correctly and the wheel spins freely.
• Clean rotors with isopropyl alcohol and a clean, lint-free cloth.
• Choose a safe, flat area with space to accelerate and slow repeatedly.

1. Accelerate to a steady speed: aim for ~15 to 20 mph (25 to 32 km/h).
2. Brake firmly to reduce speed by about half: do not stop completely.
3. Release and roll: allow the brakes to cool briefly while rolling.
4. Repeat: complete 15 to 20 cycles for most road/gravel setups, or 20 to 30 cycles for MTB/electric bike where loads are higher.
5. Cooling phase: ride normally for 3 to 5 minutes with minimal braking to let the system cool and stabilise the transfer layer.

Different pad compounds interact with the rotor in different ways during bedding in.

• Sintered pads: tend to work well early, but usually take longer to reach a fully stabilised interface.
• Organic pads: often feel softer at first, but improve noticeably once the friction layer is fully established.
• Compound choice: Enduro Pro Ultimate Orange and Enduro Pro Semi Metallic Blue suit demanding electric bikes, heavy cargo bikes and long descents. Our Performance range is for conventional bicycles and is not rated for electric bikes.

When fitting new pads to a used rotor, changing pad compound, or dealing with persistent noise, the old transfer layer can prevent the new pads from bedding in evenly. Careful cleaning and light surface preparation may help, but it cannot rescue every rotor.

Allow the brakes to cool, wear clean nitrile gloves, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only a cleaner approved by the rotor manufacturer; high-purity isopropyl alcohol is the safest general choice. Keep fingers, oil, sprays, and dirty cloths away from the braking surface.

1. Remove the wheel. Remove the rotor only if you can refit it using the correct fasteners, tightening sequence, and torque specified by the manufacturer.
2. Clean both sides. Apply isopropyl alcohol to the braking track and wipe it with a fresh, lint-free cloth before the liquid evaporates.
3. Lightly key the surface. If the rotor manufacturer permits refinishing, use 80 to 100 grit abrasive paper by hand with straight, overlapping strokes and light, even pressure on both sides. The aim is to remove glaze and the old transfer layer—not to thin the rotor, round its edges, or change its shape.
4. Clean it again. Remove all residue with isopropyl alcohol and a new lint-free cloth, then let the rotor dry completely.
5. Inspect the pads. Used, uncontaminated pads can be lightly scuffed on a clean, flat sheet of abrasive paper. Replace pads exposed to oil, brake fluid, chain lubricant, or other contaminants; sanding is not a reliable cure for absorbed contamination.
6. Reassemble and check. Refit everything to the component manufacturer's torque settings, make sure the wheel spins freely, and confirm that the brake operates correctly before riding.
7. Bed the pads in fully. Follow the step-by-step process above to build a fresh, even transfer layer.

Know when to replace: A reset may not fix deep contamination, heavy wear, or a rotor strongly conditioned by a previous compound. If noise or weak braking remains, new rotors paired with new pads are the most dependable option. If you are unsure, ask a qualified cycle mechanic or contact Gorilla Brakes for guidance.

What it is: green fade is a temporary drop in braking power that happens the first time new ("green") pads get properly hot. On Gorilla Brakes' own test rig, several new compounds showed this dip at roughly 225 to 325°C rotor temperature, then recovered as the rotor got hotter.

What's happening: resin based brake pads use a binder to hold the friction ingredients together. Sintered pads use fused metal particles, so this resin curing explanation does not apply in the same way. In a new pad, some of that resin and other organic ingredients near the surface haven't fully cured. The first time the pad gets hot enough, they give off gas and can leave a tar-like film. That layer sits between pad and rotor, reducing real contact, so friction drops. In the brake industry this is often described as the pad "hydroplaning" on a layer of gas, and it's known as "initial fade".

Why pads need to go through it: once those volatile ingredients have been driven out of the surface, they can't gas off again, so the pad becomes much more stable at that temperature. It's widely accepted across the brake industry that pads perform better once they've been through this heat curing, and that green fade is typical of immature pads whose resins still need to be driven out. In our experience at Gorilla Brakes, green fade is part of the pad curing, rather than a fault.

Why some pads are "scorched" at the factory: some manufacturers heat the pad surface with a flame, hot plate or infrared before the pad leaves the factory. This is called scorching, and its purpose is to remove the gas-producing ingredients from the surface to reduce initial fade.

Where bedding in fits: a gentle bedding in like the one above builds the transfer layer, but it may not take the rotor into the 225 to 325°C range we saw on our rig. So some pads can still show the dip the first time they're worked hard, for example on a long descent. These are rig observations, not temperature targets for riders. Follow the bedding in instructions for your brakes and do not deliberately provoke fade or continue riding with reduced braking.

See the test data and which compounds held steady in our disc brake pad green fade guide. Not sure which pads fit your brakes? Use the Gorilla Brakes pad finder.

• Consistency wins: try to apply similar braking force each cycle.
• Do not drag the brakes: dragging can overheat pads before the transfer layer forms evenly.
• New pads + old rotors: clean thoroughly and expect the first ride to feel slightly “green” until fully stabilised.
• New rotors: bedding in is even more important. give yourself the full cycle count and cooling phase.

What happens if I don’t bed in my pads?
Braking can feel weak, noisy, or inconsistent, and you may get uneven deposits that reduce performance.

Does bedding in differ by brake brand?
The principles are the same for Shimano, SRAM, Hope, TRP, Formula, Hayes, Magura, and Tektro systems.

Can I bed in new pads on old rotors?
Yes, as long as the rotor is clean, true and in good condition. Clean it thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol before fitting the new pads. If the old rotor surface is heavily glazed, contaminated or worn unevenly, bedding in may be slower and braking performance may remain inconsistent until the rotor is resurfaced or replaced.

Why do my brakes still feel weak after bedding in?
If braking still feels weak after proper bedding in, the issue is usually outside the pad. Common causes include contamination on the rotor or pads, air in the hydraulic system, poor caliper alignment, or worn components. The pad compound affects friction and braking power, while the hydraulic system, rotor and setup also affect performance.

How long does it take?
Typically 10 to 15 minutes plus a short cooling ride.

Do I need to repeat the process?
Only when fitting new pads or rotors, or if the braking surface has been contaminated or cleaned aggressively.

bedding in is the fastest way to improve braking performance, reduce squeal, and extend pad life. If your brakes still feel inconsistent after bedding in, check rotor condition, contamination, alignment, and piston movement.